Gilles Sabrié

Aerial view of Erhai Lake and Dali

Li Xiaoxue with a group of recent Dali settlers in a dance helping to to “embrace one’s inner child”. Li moved here in August 2023, after returning to China from Los Angeles. Ms. Li says Dali’s diversity and open-minded culture reminded her of California.

A follower of the Buddhist faith, praying at the entrance of a vegan supermarket. The complex also hosts a vegan canteen, yoga studios, gong lessons and a dye workshop. Newcomers to Dali, settle there in search of a healthier lifestyle, both physically and spiritually.

Qixiu (standing) a former rapper and Xiaoran (sitting), leading a private gong healing session at a newly built guest house. Both moved to Dali from Hangzhou, a provincial capital and powerhouse. The owner of the guest-house herself, also moved to Dali from there, where she was a real estate agent.

A man singing during an evening of Indian religious music at the NCC centre, a hub for digital nomads.

New residents of Dali have gathered for a “bonfire healing session”. The small event was sold out. Healing sessions of different types are popular among people who have recently settled in Dali.

A Chinese fire dancer gyrating to the drone of a didgeridoo, an Indigenous Australian instrument, in the courtyard of Yotam Sivan, Israeli musician who settled in Dali in 2021. In the 90s, Western backpackers were the first outsiders to make Dali a popular travel destination planting the seeds of an alternate new age culture. A few Westerners still live there.

People standing outside a makeshift bar where a small concert is taking place.

“City Life Sucks” says a banner over the stage of a bar popular with both young tourists and locals.

A student from Jiangxi province (right) selling jewellery to tourists on the street of Dali. She is planning to stay in Dali for a month before returning to her studies. Many young new comers try and sustain themselves by setting up booths on the streets or at markets.

At a market fair, a former computer engineer sitting by his coffee truck branded “The Wild Coffee”. He occasionally still does computer jobs and travels regularly to Tibet with his van where he sleeps. He uses Dali as his base.

Along the shore of Erhai lake, tourists having their photo taken at an open air photo studio. The owners charge $3 for the entrance and $6 for the rental of dresses and $59 for a package different accessories, sets and the services of on-site photographers. Millions of tourists come to visit Dali every year. Selfies are a big part of their activities and locals have been prompt to cash in on it.

Around Erhai lake, young tourists driving colourful convertibles they have rented for the day and use to take selfie’s. Convertibles rental is very popular in China’s tourist spots such Hainan Island and Dali.

Joey Chen, a 22-year-old freelance writer who had dropped out of college and moved to Dali a month earlier from Jiangxi Province, reading “All Men Are Mortal” by French philosopher and feminist theorist Simone De Beauvoir, in the reading lounge of Hideway Bookstore, a small bookstore recently opened in a village on the outskirts of Dali. Bookstores opened by newcomers are plentiful in Dali and often used for salons on a variety of topics. Local officials keep an eye on them, and occasionally check the books on display.

Liao Zhili, 23, a digital nomad who settled in Dali from the industrial city of Tianjin, doing some work outside a music bar. Digital nomads like him are drawn to Dali, where they can work remotely in a picturesque location.

On the rooftop of 706, a youth hostel working as a hub for many of Dali young newcomers, “digital nomads” at their computers. On the right Huang Yi, an artist who relocated from UK to Dali. He works there as an art teacher to fellow digital nomads. He says he prefers Dali to London where the cost of living is too high. 706 was renamed and its management replaced since this photos was shot. Books by China leader Xi Jinping, are now prominently on display on the book shelves of the centre.

A local is showing an old house to a family who settled in Dali from Shanghai. They are looking for a place to renovate and make their home. Locals are happy to see this influx of urbanites settling in. It increases the value of their properties.

Children of the Sun Duo kindergarten, a progressive school, during a daily outdoor activity at the school farm. On of Dali many draws for well off families, is the number of progressive schools that allow a more relaxed curriculum compared to public ones.

Zhou Qiaolin with her son Maommao during a home schooling class in her bedroom. Zhou moved with her family to Dali, a few months before. They can’t afford the local liberal private school and don’t want to enroll him in a pubic school.

Posing for photos along the shore of Erhai Lake. Dali is a popular destination for wedding photo shoots.

Tourists on rented scooters outside one of Dali’s historic gate. The bandana and colored dreadlocks are the cool outfit of the moment for Dali hip tourists.

A group of Bai women, dressed in traditional clothes, at a wet market. Ethnic Bai are the indigenous inhabitants of the region, and the preservation of this group traditions is of the appeals of Dali.

A musician singing for tourists along the shore of Erhai Lake. Many of Dali young new comers make try to make a living singing for tourists in bars or outdoor.

Tourists by a giant sculpture of a hammer and sickle in Nanniwan, a historical place immortalized with one of the most popular of all Chinese revolutionary songs. This sculpture, a magnet for selfies, is a recent addition to the site. Millions of dollars have been invested to try and make revolutionary sites more attractive.

A group of tourists dressed as red Army soldiers pose for a group photo with the Communist Party flag on the steps of the Revolution Museum.

At Yan’an Revolutionary Memorial Hall, visitors on a company tour reciting the oath of allegiance to the Communist Party. “It is my will to join the Communist Party of China, uphold the Party's program, observe the provisions of the Party Constitution, fulfill a Party member's duties, carry out the Party's decisions, strictly observe Party discipline, guard Party secrets, be loyal to the Party, work hard, fight for communism throughout my life, be ready at all times to sacrifice my all for the Party and the people, and never betray the Party.” A large part of visitors to “red tourism” sites are part of company trips. For decades, the party was not very active in businesses and enterprises. The governance of Xi Jinping has changed that. It is now compulsory for all companies to harbor communist units to "carry out the activities of the party," and to provide "necessary conditions" for these units to function. It is particularly active in the human resources department.

Leftover from a dinner in a restaurant decorated with large poster of Mao in Jinggangshan where the Red Army was created. Red tourism trips are not necessarily austere lessons of propaganda. For many visitors it is also a great opportunity to feast and drink.

A tourist making an offering of a cigarette in front of a photo of Mao and his second wife Yang Kaihui, the leader’s former home in Maoping village near Jinggangshan. In spite of its misdeeds, hardly addressed in official history books, Mao has become a God-like figure and his revered as such by numerous Chinese.

Paper cuts of Mao and Xi Jinping at a souvenir store of the newly opened Wanda red themed entertainment park, in Yan’an. A personality cult, much like that of Mao, is being organised around Xi Jinping as the Chinese president is likely to extend its leadership beyond his two five-year term. The first Chinese president to so since the death of Mao.

Tourists, dressed up as Red Army soldiers, in the lobby of a hotel, get ready for a day of sightseeing in Jinggangshan.

A tourist dressed as a Red Army soldier taking a pose in front of a statue of a revolutionary soldier. “Remember where you come from” is one of the main slogans for the centennial of the CCP. It aims at keeping the revolutionary spirit alive, reminding supporters that the “struggle” is never over, at a time when the country newfound wealth could hamper militance.

Member of a “red tourism tour” dressed as red army soldiers get ready for a souvenir photo near a statue of Mao in Yan’an.

Children on a school trip, dressed up as Red Army soldiers in front of a statue of Mao with general Zhu De at the Revolution Museum in Yan’an. Visits to revolutionary sites is part of the curriculum for school kids of all ages. Xi Jinping has said revolutionary education should start with babies, “so that the ‘red gene’ can penetrate into their blood and hearts, and guide the young people to establish a correct outlook on the world.”

Children on a school trip, dressed up as Red Army soldiers in front of a statue of Mao with general Zhu De at the Revolution Museum in Yan’an. Visits to revolutionary sites is part of the curriculum for school kids of all ages. Xi Jinping has said revolutionary education should start with babies, “so that the ‘red gene’ can penetrate into their blood and hearts, and guide the young people to establish a correct outlook on the world.”

Tourists dressed as Red Army soldiers on a “red” sightseeing tour in Jingganshan. Ahead of the the CCP 100th anniversary celebrations, millions of dollars have been invested for a facelift of “red toursim” sites and make them more fit to the demands of modern days tourists. Here, a heart-shaped corridor of plastic flowers has been set-up for selfies.

Audience and actors at a show about the revolution at the newly opened Wanda red themed entertainment park in Yan’an. Modern theatrical shows offering an immersive experience are part of the modernization of red tourism sites, intended to attract more tourists and fuel party devotion.

At a photo studio of the newly opened Wanda red themed entertainment park in Yan’an a young girl posing as a red army soldier.

A young pioneer preparing for a historical propaganda video shoot in Zhou En Lai former bedroom in Yan’an. The history told at red tourism sites has been expurged from its most controversial aspects. The bloody purges that helped Mao consolidate its power are invisible in Yan’an where they took place. “History is at the core of propaganda in China. It’s vital for the party that people feel an emotional connection to that history, and you’re only going to get that on the ground.” says Richard Mc Greggor the author of a book on the CCP.

At the newly opened Wanda red themed entertainment park, actors and extras, sing and wave flags for the shoot of a promotional video for the park at the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the party.

People at a mall where a large electronic billboard is displaying propaganda at the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the Communist Party of China. “The journey of a 100 years is magnificent and the heart is strong at the beginning of another 100 years”.

At a park created for photo touring groups, visitors are shooting a set-up seen where a female model posing has a farmer is walking ducks under banyan trees. Straw is burnt to create a foggy effect.

The entrance fee to the photo park is about $3. Do visitors care that it’s a fake reality? For most it doesn’t matter as long as they can take “beautiful” photos.

A “fisherman” rowing his boat in a mudflat used for ostreiculture seashell farming.

The “fisherman” is actually paid $30 to pose for a touring photographers group. He has removed the boat engine and put on a conic straw hat for this two hours photo session during which he is directed via megaphone by a tour guide on the bridge.

At a park for photo touring groups, a model dressed up as an ancient farmer is pulling a buffalo under banyan trees straw to create smog effect on a set-up scene where a model dressed up as an ancient farmer is puling a buffalo. Fog created by burning straw and a smoke machine adds to the atmosphere.

A woman is burning straw to create smog effect on a set-up scene where a model dressed up as an ancient farmer is puling a buffalo.

The photo set of the “farmers” pulling the buffalo is one of the most popular and iconic of the Xiapu photo tours. Photo-tourists come in the morning when the sun is shining through the leaves of the banyan trees, showing its rays across the straw smoke.

The buffalo, star of the of park, is taking a break in between shoot, tied to a billboard showing visitors the photo they will try and replicate.

At a famous viewpoints a concrete stage has been set-up to accomodate the large number of photographers who have come to shoot the “fishermen” at sunset.

A tour guide is radioing instructions to the paid “fishermen” below.

The “fishermen” carry large triangular nets on their shoulders along the beach, for two hours. A task for which they are paid $30.

At some photo spots the landscape has been remodeled to make it more “photogenic”. Here the ud has been shaped to look like a fish. The round fishing nets are no longer i use but are maintained for the photoshoots.

Two photographers on a tour are heading back to their bus, walking past a billboard promoting another spot and showing the photos that can be shot there. Between 2008 and 2019, the number of tourists visiting the region, once known primarily for agriculture and fishing, increased 10-fold, according to official statistics.

In Banyueli village, Zhong Lianjiao a 90-year-old woman of She ethnic group sitting at her home below framed pictures shot of her by photo groups. They typically pay her rmb 100 for each photo session.

At Banyueli village, tourists take pictures of a fellow traveler dressed up as a farmer, holding a buffalo in leash, posing for a souvenir photo. Buffalo and costumes are rented by locals for photos.

A photo of Lei Lushou a farmer wanted in on Xiapu’s tourism boom. He adopted a buffalo that had been headed for the slaughterhouse, hoping to mirror the success of the “farmer” photographers were flocking to see amid the banyan trees. He is renting his buffalo as well as costumes that visitors can rent for their photo-shoot.

Passengers on a ferry crossing the Yangtze River, looking at Wuhan skyline at sunset, in January 2021.

Wuhan, a city of 11 million people, is where the covid-19 epidemic started spreading a large scale. The hardest hit place in China with thousands of death, the city was put on total lock-down on January 23rd 2020, for over two months during which residents were confined to their home.

On Qingming day (celebration of the dead), a couple arrives at Biandanshan cemetery holding the portrait of a dead relative and carrying his ashes. A member of their neighborhood committee has come along. This was the second day residents of Wuhan were allowed to tend to their dead relatives and funerals were strictly regulated. No more than two relatives of the deceased were allowed to go to the cemetery and they had to be escorted by a member of the neighborhood committee.

At a shut down restaurant, a cook is taking a nap (April 2020). As Wuhan was slowly opening up, restaurants were not allowed to take patrons, but they some were operating for deliveries.

A packed restaurant on Friday evening, with maskless clients (January 2021). Since the lockdown ended, and with months without a single local case of covid transmission, restaurants are packed again with young crowds.

On new year’s eve 2020, a group of students is celebrating the beginning of a 2 months holidays, with food, songs and lots of drinks.

On January 1st 2021, a group of tango aficionados has gathered for a small party at a private studio apartment.

At a punk music concert an enthusiastic crowd waving at the band (January 2021). Wuhan is well known for its punk-rock scene and concert venues have resumed their regular schedules holding as many as five concerts a week. Many in the audience don’t wear face masks.

A Communist Party cell of the German manufacturer Bosch poses for a souvenir picture in front of the exhibition hall where they just visited an exhibition about the fight against Covid. The Communist Party of China has taken much credit for the successful containment of the covid epidemic. In particular, the neighborhood committees have been have been very efficient at identifying infected households and enforcing a strict lockdown thus limiting the spread of the virus.

At an exhibition on the fight against the covid epidemic, a video shows President Xi Jinping making a speech. The containment of the epidemic is a victory for the Chinese Communist Party with Xi Jinping at its helm, stresses the official narrative.

At an exhibition on the fight against the covid epidemic, visitors watching a video showing volunteer medical staff who have come to Wuhan in support, as the outbreak strained the local healthcare capabilities beyond its limits. Local medical staff as well as volunteers from all over China have been made heroes of the fight against the epidemic.

A man in hazmat suit is spreading disinfectant in the venue for a fashion show that took place an hour before (January 2021). Even though there hasn’t been a single local transmission of covid since May 2020, prevention is taken seriously and indoor gathering places re frequently disinfected.

Outside a neighborhood health center, a man is being tested for the covid-19 (April 2020). To get back to work or to travel outside Wuhan, covid-19 tests have become compulsory. Long lines of people waiting to be tested could be seen outside health centres. In Wuhan, unlike many overseas metropolis affected by the pandemic, there was no shortage of tests, 2 months after the peak of the epidemic.

A customer in the waiting area set up outside a bank (April 2020). As the city lock down eased up, businesses reopened but with strict covid prevention rules. Customers where only allowed one at a time inside banks and post office, and only after thorough check up of their health status.

The emergency room of Zhongnan Hospital, one of Wuhan’s largest. During the outbreak the hospital was submerged daily by hundreds of infected people seeking care which the hospital was in no capacity to provide in such great numbers. Temporary hospitals were set-up from scratch, or using stadiums, convention centers and hotels with the objective of isolating infected people from the rest of the population. A strategy that proved efficient.

Outside Zhongnan Hospital a nurse is helping people to get a covid test. They are compulsory for in-patients as well as relatives and friends who want to visit. Nucleic test have to be complemented by blood tests for anti-bodies as well as pulmonary CT-scan.

A the canteen of a Lenovo factory producing smartphones and tablets, the formerly communal cafeteria tables have been partitioned off by vertical barriers covered in reminders to avoid conversations. The barriers have been set-up to avoid possible covid contamination.

In the lobby of a luxury hotel, an infrared camera has been set up to monitor the visitors body temperature.

At the entrance of a park a security guard is pointing a handheld thermometer to a visitor’s forehead (April 2020). Parks don’t have anymore body temperature or health code checkpoints.

On a popular pedestrian street crowds of yound people have gathered to celebrate the new year, overwhelming the police trying to channel the flow of revelers. A year after the outbreak, residents are no longer worried about large gatherings.

A couple adjusting a face mask on their toddler. Face masks are no longer mandatory in Wuhan, except in public transports and hospitals, however most people still wear one in public places both indoor and outdoor.

Families at Happy Valley entertainment parks during a show. Once the lock-down lifted, entertainment parks have become popular destinations again.

A line has formed at a popular attraction of Happy Valley entertainment park.

On a chill night a group of youth having drinks around a brasero.

A market alleyway in Minquan neighbourhood slated for renovation.

In a neighbourhood earmarked for demolition, an elderly couple in front of their home. Entire old neighborhoods are planned to be demolished/rebuilt as the city revamps itself.

A woman, on her way to grocery shopping, holding her face mask in a demolished neighborhood. Entire old neighbourhoods are planned to be demolished/rebuilt as the city revamps itself.

In Zhongshan Park, a woman dressed up for a portrait photo, while a member of the team is looking on from behind.

A model taking a break during fashion show held on a boat on the Yangtze River.

A man in a Wuhan park on the day the city lock-down was officially lifted (April 8th 2020)

On a chill winter day, a swimmer about to jump in the Yangtze River as a cargo loaded with cars is cruising along.

A couple listening to a pop song concert at a newly opened music bar.

Graves at Biandanshan cemetery, one of the largest in Wuhan, and where many of the city Covid victims have been laid to rest.

A man looking at Wuhan skyline by the Yangtze River under the Yangsigang bridge.

A corridor of Beijing West railway station, a few days before the Lunar New Year. This station, the largest in Asia when it was inaugurated in the late 90s, is no longer adapted to China’s railways modernization. It mainly serves green (slow) trains, and a few high speed trains.

At Beijing West Railway station, a migrant worker is heading back to the family hometown for the New Year holidays. The Lunar New Year is the busiest time of year for train travels, with an estimated 190 million trips were during the 2024 spring festival holidays. China Railway network modernisation has made this yearly migration a lot easier, reducing it to a few hours when it could take 1 or 2 days just a decade earlier.

A few days ahead of the celebrations of the Lunar New Year, passengers aboard a green train settle into their quarters in the hard-sleepers section, carrying with them presents intended for their family. The traditional green trains continue to enjoy widespread popularity among travelers, despite their slow pace: tickets are considerably cheaper than the high-speed white trains, and provide overnight journeys across the country.

A passenger sleeping on the middle berth of a hard-sleeper green train.

A passenger looking at the window while the green train is crossing the Yangtze river.

A passenger of a green train is having a cigarette at one end of the wagon. Smoking is permitted on the slower green train, but prohibited in the high-speed white trains.

A passenger is pouring boiling water on a bowl of instant noodles, a fixture of the China train traveler diet. Both high speed and slow trains have water boilers installed in every wagons.

Two passengers enjoying a meal on a slow train.

The view of the construction site for a high-speed train line, seen from a slow “green train” traveling across Guizhou province. The mountainous terrain of Southern China makes the construction of a high-speed train network there, extremely costly and technologically challenging. Local governments, already heavily indebted, are often required to partake in the costs of these new infrastructures.

Above Yunnan semi-tropical forest, close to the border, workers are building the China-Lao high-speed railway line. The line started operating in 2022. An extension of the line to Bangkok, is under construction. The Kunming-Vientiane railway is a link in a possible future network connecting China with Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, Malaysia and Singapore giving southern China more access to ports and export markets.

In Sichuan province, an aged farmer digging a sweet potatoes field, beneath a high-speed railway line opened to traffic in 2024. The high-speed railway network is now reaching once remote areas of the country. The economic benefits are not always obvious. Critics says that the country is now over-spending on infrastructures, while education or healthcare are still lagging behind.

A high speed train riding through a new neighborhood of Yibin (Sichuan) where a large real estate project, “The City Of The Future” is under construction. The opening of a new high speed train line, often triggers the construction of new neighborhoods. Building trains offers an immediate boost to an economy struggling to keep people employed. The hoped for, economic boom associated with the fast train, doesn’t always come, though.

A woman walking outside the empty Fushun railway station plaza where a Communist propaganda sculpture is on display. China high-speed railway network is a source of National pride as well as a symbol of the country’s economic development and technological prowess.

The V.I.P. salon of Chengdu Tianyu railway station, decorated with a large painting showing a high-speed train riding through Sichuan mountainous landscape.

A traveler in the cavernous and very empty waiting room of Yibin railway station, inaugurated in 2024, along with the Chengdu-Yibin railway line. This station counts only 2000 passengers a day, a low traffic : the city of 2 million, now counts 3 railway stations.

At Beijing South railway station, passengers waiting in line to access the platform of departing high-speed train. The station serves the Beijing-Shanghai high-speed line, inaugurated in 2011, and China’s rail network busiest with over 50 million passengers in 2023, generating a profit in billions of dollars..

A security agent screens passengers' luggage at Chengdu Tianfu high-speed railway station. The security protocol at railway stations in China is similar to that of airports, with all luggage being X-rayed and passengers going through metal detectors.

Passengers using their ID cards to get through a face-recognition system allowing them to access the train platforms. Material tickets have become obsolete on the Chinese rail network. Tickets are linked to ID numbers. This heightened security system allows a better population control.

At Weiyuan (Sichuan) high speed railway station, an employee using a loudspeaker to call passengers to speed up boarding the train.

A train employee pushing a food cart in the aisle of a second class high-speed train wagon. Food can be purchased on-line from the dining carriage or through trolleys that move through the train.

Passengers at Chengdu East Railway station, a regional hub for rail transport that sees millions of passengers a year.

A passenger in the empty waiting room of Yibin railway station. The country's geography has been transformed by China’s rail network. Futuristically designed railway stations have cropped up everywhere. They are not always full, sometimes empty, but Chinese people have seen that high-speed rail is changing their lives. In the 16 years since its inception, the high-speed train has become a symbol of the Chinese model.

A group of Beijing women has come for a Sunday yoga class on a renovated part of the Great Wall. The Great Wall is not only a place for hikers and tourists. Rave parties, fashion shows, corporate events use it as an attractive backdrop, sometimes creating a backlash from conservationists and Great Wall enthusiasts who complain about the its commercialization.

A herder on the Great Wall near Datong (Shanxi) as his sheep are coming back from grazing. Farm animals contribute to the Great Wall deterioration.

Herders standing on the Great Wall near Datong (Shanxi). In this region, the wall is made of soil and has been eroded over the years by wind and rain while farming activities have accelerated the process.

An eroded Great Wall marks the border between Shanxi and Inner Mongolia.

Vegetation now covers the Great Wall West of Datong (Shanxi).

A tourist has climbed on a crumbling watchtower of the Great Wall at the border between Hebei and Liaoning provinces. Hikers are contributing to the rapid deterioration of the Great Wall and authorities have started to restrict access to certain parts of it. However, the income locals receive from tourism and the length of the wall itself make a ban difficult to enforce.

A woman walking on a portion of the Great Wall covered with cement in Liaoning Province. This stretch of the wall dating back 700 years ago, was covered with cement in a badly inspired intent to repair it, creating a backlash from conservationists and Great Wall enthusiasts. Until recently, preservation efforts were not coordinated leaving local authorities responsible for their stretch of the wall, sometimes with disastrous effects.

In Shanxi province, an entertainment park has been created at the foot of the Great wall in a bid to attract tourists. Giant corn knobs and fake Dutch windmills, used for selfies are now part of what was a beautiful landscape.

At Sanhaiguan (Hebei) a giant Chinese red flag marks the Eastern end of the Great Wall where it falls into the Bohai sea. This is the place where the Manchus invaded China defeating the Ming dynasty in 1644. The Great Wall, the biggest man-made military construction, is a source of great pride for the country. In spite of its state of disrepair, it remains a symbol of the country’s might.

Cable-cars running above crowds of tourists at Badaling, the most visited site of the Great Wall a UNESCO protected World Heritage. UNESCO criticized the installation of cable-cars and a tobogan at Badaling expressing concerns that “the authenticity of the setting of the Great Wall is vulnerable to construction of inappropriate tourism facilities”. Millions come every year at Badaling a place which has come to represent the Great Wall as a whole. The site was renovated in the 50s and became the first open as a tourist spot. This is where foreign dignitaries are taken for official photos.

Graffiti on a watch tower of the Great Wall near Badaling. Unchecked over-tourism has left its mark on the construction. Signs asking vistors to “Protect the Great Wall” have now been placed at many locations and people caught defacing the wall risk heavy fines. Many rules now protect the Great Wall. They are difficult to implement.

A gate of the fortified village of Zhumapu (Shanxi) in ruin. Villagers along the Great Wall have have for decades used the fortification as a source of bricks for their own constructions accelerating its demise. Locals see little value in what was a military protection against a threat that doesn’t exist anymore. The mindset changed as t has now become a potential tourist attraction, and the law forbids any damage to the relic. Holes in the wall can still be used by villagers as cellars to store vegetables or farming tools.

An architect, professor at Beijing University, is flying a drone for a 3D mapping of a part of the Great Wall under renovation, near Badaling (Beijing). Great amounts efforts and money have been invested recently to preserve and restore the Great Wall. The latest technology are being used and rules have been establish to avoid previous mistakes. Badaling is no longer see as a model. Preservation is privileged over reconstruction.

A gate enclosing the restoration site of a tower at the fortified village of Zhenbian (Shanxi). Zhenbian was a garrison village for the protection of the Great Wall during the Ming Dynasty. Many inhabitants of the village are descendants of the soldiers who were guarding the wall on the watch for Mongol intruders. Zhenbian has been turned into a tourist village, with many locals resettled just outside the historic village to leave room for tourist facilities. The tourist spot opened in 2016 but see few visitors. Renovation are still going on.

Architects inspecting restoration work on a watch tower near Badaling (Beijing). Renovation and preservation of the Great Wall now use as much as possible the stones originally used for its construction centuries ago. The techniques are also similar in many ways, in particular the mortar that fixes the bricks and stones together, with rice as a main ingredient. It proved very effective in allowing the construction to withstand the test of time.

Inhabitants of the fortified village Xinpingbao (Shanxi) under the drum tower dating back from the XVth century. This garrison village by the Great Wall has been left out of China’s economic development over the past decades and life hasn’t changed a lot. At the end of the main street one can see the village North Gate, facing the Great Wall which marks the border between Hebei, Inner Mongolia and Shanxi.

An elderly sitting next to a portrait of Chairman Mao dating back from the Cultural Revolution, in the fortified village Ninglupu were garrison soldiers manning the Wall were living. During the Ming dynasty many settlements along the Great Wall were also fortified, an additional defense against Mongols incursions. These very poor rural villages, haven’t benefited much from China’s recent economic development. Deserted by young people, many houses are falling into disrepaitr juslt like the Wall next to them.

Medals embossed with an image of the Great Wall on one side and Chairman Mao on the other, sold as souvenirs at Badaling (Beijing). The Great Wall is not only a tourist destination but also a symbol of the country and a source of great pride.

Tourists enjoy a day by the sea at Sanhaiguan (Hebei), the most Oriental part of the Great Wall where it falls into the Bohai Sea. Not much was left of the Great Wall there when it was rebuilt in the 80s and 90s with little consideration for historic authenticity. it is now a popular tourist spot where visitors can enjoy both the beach and the Great Wall.

A man sitting next to a poor replica of the Great Wall decorated with a naval warship, in Qinhuangdao (Hebei). While the real Great Wall was falling into disrepair, repilcas have been built in numerous place, mainly in a bid to attract tourists. Some replicas are so real that visitors think they are actually at the real one.

The abandoned construction site for a failed tourist resort at the foot of the Great Wall in Dongjiakou (Hebei). Some tourist developments near the relic, have disfigured a beautiful natural and historic site. Some rules forbid such endeavours, however, they prove difficult to implement.

Inhabitants of Zhenbian fortified village taking the sun by the old wall, on a newly built street. Many of the locals have been resettled outside the old village which has been turned into a tourist site.

On a barren mountain of Ningxia, a portion of the Great Wall is slowly disappearing into the landscape, eroded by centuries of strong wind, desertification and flash floods. The Great Wall span such great distances and the forces of nature are so strong that it remains impossible to protect as a whole.

Aerial view of the Great Wall at Jiankou (Beijing), one of the most spectacular Great Wall site. Jiankou has been the focus of great preservation efforts which are still on-going. Restoration has been been mixing the traditional way of building the wall, with the latest technologies.

A tourist at Badaling Great Wall (Beijing)

The Great Wall at Jiankou (Beijing). No efforts have been spared to preserve the wall at one of its most spectacular site. The wall wasn’t rebuilt as new, instead the ruins were frozen, ensuring they wouldn’t deteriorate any further while preserving a spectacular landscape. The very steep relief makes the work, still on-going, particularly difficult.

The shaman Uuganbayar possessed by his spirit Tsagaday is getting into a trance during a shamanic celebration of spring. 

A woman throwing bits of cake to the sky, as an offering to Tenger, the main spirit of shamanic practices.   Shamanism is a worship of nature and the spirits that rule mountains, rivers and the sky.

Participants to a shamanic celebration of spring have placed offerings of cake sweets, milk and vodka on an altar as offering to a sacred tree believed to have strong powers.

Pilgrims who have come to attend a celebration of spring at the "Mother tree", a symbol of eternity, are hanging khatas (ceremonial piece of cloth) as offerings. 

During a celebration of spring, in northern Mongolia, shamans have made a circle around the "mother tree" and throwing vodka at, it as an offering. Decades of this practice have killed the tree.

Pilgrims who have come to attend a shamanic celebration of spring in northern Mongolia, kneeling palms open to the sky in front of the "mother tree" a symbol of eternity believed to have special powers. 

A pilgrim embracing a khata tied to the "mother tree". She whispers wishes that she believes the tree will grant. Other pilgrims have folded bank notes onto the trunk as offering.

A pilgrim, his palms opened to the sky, a pilgrim in prayer seeking the blessing from the "mother tree" spirit. 

Pilgrims lining up in front of a shaman, master of ceremony at a celebration of spring, waiting to be blessed. Shamans work as mediators between the spirits and human beings and are believed to hold powers such as healing.

Shamans have gathered in circle around a wood fire, beating sheepskin drums to call the spirits during a celebration of spring in northern Mongolia. 

During a celebration of spring a shaman chanting his palms opened to the sky in front of a fire. Fire is a key element of shamanic rituals, it belongs to the arch of the sky and symbolises the sun. Some say the avent of shamanic rituals coincided with the human mastering of fire.

Near the "mother tree", a shaman dressed with wolf skins, is getting into a trance, connecting with his spirit, as fellow shamans beat their drum. Pilgrims have fed the fire with lamb ribs wrapped in  a green khata enclosing handwritten notes of their wishes.

An assistant is lighting a pipe filled with tobacco for a shaman wearing a coat made of wolf skin. Before and during the trance shamans smoke tobacco and drink vodka. The adoration of flora and fauna is essential to shamanism and certain animals are considered to be totems or symbolic ancestors for tribes or clans. The wolf is a mythical ancestors of the Mongols. 

A shaman wearing a hat adorned with an eagle head. In the shamanist belief, animals have souls and they reincarnate themselves.

A stuffed eagle placed atop the ger (Mongolian tent) of the Centre for Shamanic Eternal Heavenly Sophistication where a renown shaman used to practice before his accidental death. Eagles are closely associated with Mongolian shamanic traditions and the shaman themselves. 

An altar in the prayer room of master shaman Byambadorj with a portrait of Genghis Khan on the wall. At the right of the altar stands a frame picture of Byambadorj with former Mongolia president Nambar Enkhbayar (3rd from left) and Badmaanyambuu Bat-Erdene (first from right) Mongolia former National wrestling champion and current parliament member. With Shamanism increasing popularity in Mongolia, it mixes with politics: many members of parliaments practice shamanism, and even some being shaman themselves. Genghis Khan portraits are ubiquitous in Mongolian homes including  Shamans' practice rooms. The cult of the Mongolian ruler is part of local shamanist belief. Genghis Khan practiced shamanism himself and he is considered the master of all shamans. His spirit is frequently called upon during shamanic ceremonies.

Outside the Centre for Shamanic Eternal Heavenly Sophistication, where a renown shaman used to practice before his accidental death, a shamanic statue and a sulde (black flag pole). Many of such centres have appeared in Ulaan Baatar since the 90s. Locals go there seeking a variety of services, from fortune-telling to healing. This is also the place where novices are trained to become shamans themselves.  All these activities have turned shamanism into a booming business.

Two women in the waiting room of Byambadorj's home, waiting  for an audience with the master shaman. Across from them a menu of the shaman services has been posted on the wall : from curing health problems, to removing or casting curses, including fortune telling.  Behind the receptionist, a large poster shows the boundaries of the Mongolian empire at the time of Genghis Khan. The revival of shamanism coincides with a rise of nationalism. Shamanism is closely associated with the Mongolian identity and culture. 

A woman visiting master shaman Byambadorj for his healing powers. When connected with their spirit shamans are believed to possess a wide-ranging array of powers, from curing health problems, to removing or casting curses, including fortune telling. These services can be a good source of income for shamans although many claim they are not paid for it. 

Tugsuu an ethnic Mongol from China kneeling in prayers at an ovoo in the courtyard of master shaman Byambadorj. Tugsuu has come to Ulaanbaatar to be initiated as a shaman.  Many Chinese and Russians, a few Westerners as well, come to Mongolia to study and become shamans. 

Suhe and Tugsuu, ethnic Mongols from China preparing to get in a trance at the home of master shaman Byambadorj under the guidance of his daughter Enkhoyun (left). Tugsuu and Suhe have come to Ulaanbaatar to be initiated as shamans. The call to become shaman usually occurs during a prolonged illness, during which a connection with a spirit happens. The apprentice then seek the help of a master shaman to learn the skills that will allow them to get in trance and connect with their spirit on a regular basis. The training of novice shamans is good source of incomes for master shamans.

Enkhoyun, daughter of master shaman Byambadorj, helping Suhe, a novice shaman from China, as he is getting into a trance. 

Enkhoyun, daughter of master shaman Byambadorj, waving juniper smoke to the face of Tugsuu a novice shaman, to help him getting into a trance.  Juniper smoke, very mildly hallucinogenic, is systematically used in shamanaic ceremonies.

Suhe a novice shaman throwing vodka at an ovoo in the courtyard of master shaman Byambadorj. 

A wooden ovoo adorned with blue khatas at sunset in the Mongolian grassland. Ovvo are shamanic shrines usually situated along roads or on top of mountains and used by mongols to pay they respects to the spirits by walking around them and throwing vodka or milk to them. Shamanism is an adoration of nature in all its forms. As the Mongolian environment has become threatened by unchecked mining, and air pollution, the new shamans have turned environmentalists, protectors of both the Mongolian culture and country's nature. 

Jing Dingxia, (72) with his wife Zhao Nunu, (68). Their grandson Baoyu is currently studying business English in Lanzhou  and would like to go on studying for a masters degree which would enable him to find work in a big city but they want him to come back and work for the local government. A new village is being built down by the road. They have already put down 5000 RMB (800 USD) to reserve a plot of land but can't afford the 200 000 (32,000 USD) necessary to build a house on it. Behind them Jing and Zhao have used a poster from the State Grid explaining basic safety rules when dealing with electricity, to cover the walls. Newspapers, advertising or propaganda posters are often used like this as both decoration and thermal insulators.

Inside the home of Jing and Zhao. A photo of their grandson Baoyu with his grand father is placed against the mirror.

Chen Xiuling (32) years old with her two children He Yawen (9) and He Guanghui (6). Chen's husband is a migrant worker in the South of Gansu 4 hours by bus from the family home. He sets up electric lines in the countryside and comes back home every two months. They built a new house a year ago. She says the old house was warmer (the old house was made of adobe while the new one has concrete floors and walls) but she is still happy with the new one. The construction of the house is not finished so for now they are living in the smaller room. She met her husband in Lanzhou (the capital city of Gansu province) where they were both migrant workers. She subsequently moved to her husband's village where she is taking care of their children.

Embroidery made by Chen on fabric covering the couch.

73 years old An Shoujia. An is a strong believer in Buddha and thinks he is helping her with her ailments (back pain). Her husband was working in the fields when this picture was taken.

Across from An's kang, bags of grains have been stocked.

Fu Wenbin (15) on the kang he shares with his dad Fu Decang, (50).  Wenbin was mostly brought up by his grandmother, as his father spent 5 years in prison. The grandma passed away when he came out, two years ago. Wenbin will be entering middle school next year and would like to go on to high school if he can, but his father wants him to find a job.

A wall inside the home of Fu Decang.

32 years old Niu Binggui, with his three years old son Haoran. Niu Binggui is a cook for a construction company in Ningxia province several hundred kilometers away from the family hometown.  He is now is own boss in charge of the catering for a construction site. It means a little more money but also more responsibilities. For 10 years he has been working as a cook in restaurants and dreams of opening his own, but lacks the funds to do so. In two day he will be leaving for work at the end of his new year break. He won't see his family again before months.  
 

Wedding portrait in Niu's room.

Yu Zhanglai (67) with his wife Dong Juming (67). In their village, Yu Jiaping, the majority has moved down to the newly built settlements. A house there costs 200K RMB (32,000 US$) and they can't afford to move. A new road has been built between the old and the new village. Each family contributed 1,000R RMB to the construction but they are too poor to contribute.

Tea pot on the burner at the home of Yu Zhanglai and his wife.

Li Caiping (46). She has 2 daughters and 1 son. Her eldest daughter is a dancer in a show for tourists at the National Park of Jiuzhaigou (Sichuan) and helps Li financially. She has a bad leg resulting from a birth defect. Li rents out her land to neighbours and keeps 1 mu (0,16 acre) for herself. Her son (16) quitted school last year and doesn't work. "Boys are harder to raise than girls. They are lazy", she says

Wall in Li Caiping's courtyard.

Wang Huanguo, (77), has bound feet and can't remember exactly when they started bandaging her feet but probably when she was around 4 years old. In those days, all the girls would get their feet bound. This practice stopped when Mao took power in 1949. She used to walk long distances to go to temple fairs but now she is too old and never goes very far. She says it hurts too much. "All my feet bones are broken"
 "but my grandmother's feet were even smaller!" she adds. Her eldest grand-son paid for the renovation of her house which she keeps neatly clean.

Wang Huanguo needs a stick to walk with her bound feet.

Jin Fener, (63) with her granddaughter Ma Xiyang, (12). Xiyang's father is mentally ill and recently cracked his skull open in a bad fall. He has been bedridden for a month. She has to look after both of them with barely any income. Her husband was away spraying pesticides in their fields, half an hour away from the village. They also produce a bit of honey (30 yuan / jin)
 

In Jin Fener's courtyard.

From left to right : Wang Yandi (16) Wang Lei (5) Wang Yanxia (21). Lei's mother is working over a thousand kilometers away in a supermarket in Xinjiang where the wages are higher. Yandi & Yanxia, two sisters, are taking care of their little nephew. They are on their own as their parents have passed away. They will soon move to a new house the family is having built nearby.

The courtyard of the Wang family.

72 years old Chen Guiqin, with her 73 years old husband Liu Yanggao. Living with them and taking care of them is one of their two daughters who recently gave birth to a little girl. She is unhappy to have to stay in the village and would rather be in Shanghai where her husband is a migrant worker.

The ancestors altar in the home of Chen Guiqin and Liu Yanggao. The calligraphy is a quote from former Communist Party Secretary Jiang Zemin.

70 years old Peng Jinjin,  all smiles with his newly born grand daughter Xiyuan laying on the kang next to him.  All is not happiness in Peng's life, though. His son committed suicide after his wife left him, leaving Peng in charge of another grand daughter. Sitting on the left is Peng's brother, 76 years old Xusheng, who never got married. 

Peng Yongjie, 38 yo, with his wife 30 years old Di Jinfang and their 40 days old daughter. Peng And Di have been trying to have a baby since they got married 8 years ago. They have sought help from local private clinics with no success and at mounting costs. Eventually  they went to a hospital in the provincial capital Xian, where they were quoted 20,000RMB (US$ 3,200) for an artificial insemination. At the time Peng and Di only had 3,000 RMB in savings. For four years Peng and Di saved money to eventually be able to pay for the operation last year. The first attempt was successful. They now want to have another baby, a boy. The poster on the wall was put up 7 years ago. Peng is a construction worker and makes about 100 CNY (16US$) a day. The picture was taken the day before Peng's departure for work after the Chinese New Year break. 

On the wall of Peng's home.

74 years old Wang Juju. During the Great Hunger of the early 60's, his 9 siblings left the region in search of food. He never saw them again. He himself was two weeks without eating anything. Nowadays he survives, producing honey with four beehives.

A comforter on Wang Juju's kang.

65 years old, Niu Wenxuan. Besides farming, Niu has a passion for calligraphy and he occasionally does restoration of old scrolls. The scrolls hanging above his kang dates back from the Qing Dynasty.

Couch in the home of Niu Wenxuan.

22 years old Niu Taotao, left her village at 17 to work in Beijing, after 3 years there she came back to her village to take care of her younger brother (their parents have died). She has a boyfriend who she was introduced to through a relative. He is is from the same county but works hundreds of kilometers away in a factory in Beijing. They only met twice and talk regularly via the internet. She is unsure about this relation and does not plan to get married before her younger brother goes to college. She prefers life in the village which she finds more comfortable and safer than Beijing. She is taking care of the small family apple orchard and enjoys watching tv during her free time. 

The living space across from the Kang in Niu's home.

72 years old Yao Gouwa,  with his wife, Liu Yinxiang, also 72. She is in pain from hypertension. Liu is in pain from hypertension, a very common affliction among elders in the region.

12 years old He Tiantian on the kang she shares with her aunt who is raising her. Her mother died in an accident when she was 5 and her father has not been heard of after he left the village to find some work the same year.  She wants to be a dancer.

65 years old Zheng Julian on her broken kang. 8 years ago Zheng and her family had to leave their village 50 kilometers away officially because of desertification. She complains that the land they were given is no better than the one they left and says the houses built by the government for the relocated farmers are poorly built. "When I had to leave, I cried so much I thought I would become blind." On her wall, the school diplomas and awards of her grandson as well as a 4 years old calendar featuring a picture of Prime Minister Wen Jiabao visiting her region, during which he made a pledge to fight desertification.

The door to Zheng's room. 

90 years old, Li Shutao, has 20 grandchildren, most of them migrant workers but they keep foot in the village. In his youth Li was a farm worker travelling on train rooftops following the harvest season from county to county, all the way to the neighbouring province of Shaanxi. This is as far as he has ever travelled. During the great hunger of the 60s he urged his sons to leave the village and go and beg for food in Shaanxi. He told them to pretend to be mute so they could more easily get on trains.

On the wall of Li Shutao's home

Jiang Shuanwa (62) with her husband  He Mingyi (64). At the age of 17, relatives introduced Jiang to a local young man she was supposed to marry. Jiang felt otherwise and wasn't so keen on the chosen one, so when her path crossed that of Yo on a village road, she decided he was a better fit and married him. Jiang and He are taking care of their grand daughter who is going to middle school and it's a heavy burden on this household with little income. School is free but they have to pay for food, books, uniform which amounts to 2000 RMB (320 USD) a year. Soon they will have to rent a room in the city so that she can go to high school which will add another 2000 RMB. They can't afford it. 

The wall at the entrance of Jang and He's home.

Zhang Guizi (71). In his home, Zhang has a huge poster of Mao. Even though he complains about the destruction of the local Taoist Temple during the cultural revolution, he worships Mao who he says got his family out of poverty. Before the revolution they were living in a cave with no land of their own. They had to rent half a mu from the temple to be able to farm and had to give back  a share of their crops in return. After the Liberation, they were given two mu and a cow but it wasn't until the Cultural Revolution that they didn't have to share their crops with the temple. In the 80's a fake Taoist monk came to live in the temple and was living off the locals' credulity. He died 4 years ago and now the Temple has just been renovated with financial contribution from all villagers. Zhang says it's nowhere near as beautiful as it was before, with poorly made statues and drawings but he is still happy to see it alive again.    

The coal burning stove next to Zhang's kang.

Liu Lucheng, 84 yo, with his wife Yang Fanxiu, 83. They don't have energy any more to take care of their field. Their only son died in 2008.

Yang Fanxiu spends her days making straw hats.

12 years old Xie Hong with her grandparents who are taking care of her. Hong's mum left her after the death of her father (often widows don't stay with in-laws in poor rural China, even at the cost of leaving the children behind). Hong's grandparents are afflicted by heart diseases and the bills pile up, straining the household meagre incomes. Hong says she wants to study to become a doctor "to take care of my grandparents, too often sick". The frames above the kang are embroidery made by Hong's grandmother. Embroidery patterns and frames are sold at local markets and are popular home decoration in this part of China.

Lunch is warming up on the stove in Hong's home.

In Yushu (Qinghai) Tibetans attend a horse festival, a long running tradition at the core of Tibet's nomadic culture. Many such festivals have been recently suppressed by the Chinese authorities, out of fear of unrest.

A Kazakh nomad on his horse, in the grasslands of the Altai range, facing a propaganda billboard saying : "The foundation of this county is in its environment; environmental protection is the priority; must realise sustainable development of the grassland". In this region, many nomads have left for neighbouring Kazakhstan, rather than be forced into sedentary farming for which they have little knowledge. 

Fence in the grassland of the Sanjiangyuan reserve. Fencing has been one of the first government policy implemented to control nomadic populations. Prior to this policy, grasslands where communally managed by the nomads. Through fencing,  each nomad family was allocated specific grazing area which was fenced with government subsidies, a first step in the sedentarization of mobile populations. Fencing has proved deeply unpopular, and led to an upsurge of local territorial conflicts over grazing rights, including major conflicts that have led to fatalities. Moreover, scientists argue that fencing off pastureland doesn't curb soil erosion as grazing is part of the eco-system and contributes to the sustainability of the flora and fauna. 

In a residential compound recently completed, but yet waiting for its inhabitants, a Tibetan herder has brought his livestock, sheep and horses, to graze in the rubbles.  The government campaign to move Tibetan herders to urban areas and curtail pastoralism has put the nomads traditional lifestyle and livelihood at risk. The environmental rational behind this policy is questioned by human rights group and scientists alike.   

Rows of houses built for resettled nomads. In the name of environmental protection, the government has implemented a policy of nomads resettlement putting their traditional lifestyle and livelihood at risk. This policy, by curtailing pastoralism, officially aims at reducing the desertification threatening the Tibetan eco-system and other parts of China. Scientists are skeptical about its efficiency, arguing that pastoralism contributes to the sustainability of the grassland, while human rights groups criticise its high human cost.

At the foot of the Mutzagh Ata mountain a Kyrgyz village with rows of newly built houses for nomads, part of nationwide plan to settle nomadic populations.

A Tibetan boy playing with a toy next to an empty home part of a recently built housing project for relocated Tibetan nomads in Madoi (Qinghai). 

A Tibetan nomad, holding his granddaughter in the house they recently moved in. They bought the house with government subsidies. Although featuring many amenities of modern living, satellite TV, washing machine, fridge..etc, the owners complain about the poor quality of the construction and point at many items already damaged just after a few weeks of occupancy. This former nomad has kept the family tent and plans to use it for a restaurant catering to tourists visiting the region. As nomads have to give up pastoralism, many see tourism as an alternative source of income.

Wemah a 75 years old Tibetan nomad at his home, built with funds from the local government. Wemah who was born out a family of wealthy herders, has now no livestock to live on after the last few cows he owned were stolen by cattle thieves.

At sunrise, a Tibetan horseman walks his horse through the smoke coming from a juniper fire, a cleansing and strengthening ritual, before taking part in a horse race at Yushu horse festival. Nomadism is a pillar of Tibetan culture. The governement resettlement policy put this culture at risk as thousands of former nomads are forced into a sedentary lifestyle for which they are ill-equipped.

In Yushu, during a horse festival, nomads show their equestrian skills. Horse festivals are traditionally held every summer in the Tibetan grasslands and are part of the nomadic culture. Many have recently been cancelled by the government for fear of unrest. Others, such as the one in Yushu, are sponsored by the local government in an effort to boost tourism and, some say, for propaganda purposes.

Young Tibetans crossing paths with Buddhist monks in Yushu (Qinghai) a market town for nomads of the region. For many of the younger generation of Tibetans, urban life is more appealing than the nomadic lifestyle of their parents however they remain attached to it. Nomadism and Buddhism are two main pillars of the Tibetan culture.

A young nomad playing pool. Forced to give up herding, it is difficult for nomads to find alternate source of income. With little education, no professional training, and no job market, many nomads live on the government compensations until they dry up and then leave the grasslands.

Meilan (left) and his cousin, two ethnic Kazakh herders, take a break in the barren landscape of Northern Xinjiang. Meilan would like to quit the nomadic life and find work in the city but can not, he is the elder son and has to take care of the family livestock. The nomads resettlement policy  may meet the aspirations of some nomads, especially younger ones who dream of another life, however most herders have no alternative source of income.

In the grassland of the Altai mountains, a young Kazakh nomad standing in front of the family yurt where both his parents stand, during the yearly migration from summer to winter pastures. 

In his tent, a Kazakh nomad feeding his 9 months old daughter with a bottle, while his son is playing outside the family tent. They are on their way to the summer grassland and have establish camp in a deserted landscape. Desertification has been intensifying and is an environmental threat in the region. The government claims overgrazing is responsible for it, and has developed a policy of forced settlements for nomads, threatening the livelihood of the local Kazakh nomads. Hundreds have moved to nearby Kazakhstan as  result. This nomad owns a dozen camels, 25 cows and a hundred sheep. The family earns between RMB 10 000 and 25 000 a year. He also plans to follow the example of some of his relatives and leave China for Kazakhstan.

Near Buerqin (Xinjiang), in his tent, a Kazakh nomad feeding his 9 months old daughter, next to his son. Some in his extended family have moved to nearby Kazakhstan, as they were forced to sell their herd. The family owns a dozen camels, 25 cows and a hundred sheep and earns between RMB 10 000 and 25 000  ($ 4000) a year. They are thinking of leaving Xinjiang for Kazakhstan.

Young Tajiks, playing with a smartphone made of wood and felt, in the grassland near Tashgurkan (Xinjiang). In spite of the government efforts to curtail nomadic pastoralism, this family moves to the grasslands every summer. Concrete yurts have been built on the road to Tashgurkan, but haven't been used.

In Tagong (Sichuan) a beggar sleeping on the street in spite of sub freezing temperatures. The government policy of resettling the nomads is a threat to their livelihood. Most of them, with no education, and ill prepared for life in the city are unable to generate alternate source of income. Many of them live on government subsidies or compensations initially provided to them. When these dry up they are left with no way to support themselves.

In Yushu (Qinghai) Tibetan nomads surrounding a middle-man at cordyceps market. The cordyceps is a highly coveted fungus used in traditional Chinese medicine, harvested in spring at high altitude in the Himalayas. Some nomads make tens of thousand of dollars annually from the cordyceps trade. However this source of income is drying up as, prices have dropped recently. Over harvesting is another threat to this new source of income, which has compensated for some, the loss of income resulting from the restriction to pastoralism. 

Chinese tourists enjoying the Tibetan grassland near Xiahe (Gansu). Some Tibetan nomads in the region have set-up camps for tourists, cashing on the fascination for nomadic lifestyle.. A new source of income for them as their livelihood is under threat by a resettlement plan. 

A Chinese tourists at a horse-riding camp set-up by Tibetan nomads in the grassland near Xiahe (Gansu). Some nomads in the region have set-up camps for tourists, cashing on the fascination for nomadic lifestyle. A new source of income for them as their livelihood is under threat by a resettlement plan. 

In Hexingten (Inner Mongolia) a herder takes his sheep grazing nearby a coal to gas power plant, polluting the water and the air. Local herders have been protesting the plant and ended up in jail. Throughout Inner Mongolia, herders and nomads have had to give up their land for government projects : mining, power plants, military zones, leading some to suicides or prison.  

75 years old, Dushaocai sitting on her bed smoking, in Jarud Banner (Inner Mongolia). Dushaocai had to leave her grassland in Holingol due to pollution from a nearby aluminium mill. She was forced to resettle in an urban area, separated from her sons. Remembering her life on the grassland brings her to tears. Her best memory of, it is waking up before sunrise and cooking milk tea for her sons. Mongol nomads have been the first to be affected by forced resettlement, and wandering pastoralism a pillar of mongol culture and lifestyle, amost entirely disappeared in the 90s.

A nomad wearing a hat made of fox fur, at the sources of the Yangtze river where he and his family live year around which was impossible just a few years ago. Rising temperatures and receding glaciers allow yaks to graze in the area. 

Young Tibetan nomads walking towards the Jianggendiru glacier source of the Yangtze river, in one of the most desolate and remote region of the Tibetan plateau. In large parts of the region, the Three Rivers Natural Reserve, grazing has been banned in the name of environmental protection while heavily polluting mining operations have been authorized. 

The empty grasslands of the Three Rivers Park on the Tibetan plateau. Grazing is banned in thousands of square miles of this region and nomads are nowhere to be seen. A policy implemented in the name of environment protection, but increasingly challenged by scientists who argue that the threats to the Tibetan plateau ecosystem are the results of climate change, the proliferation of rodents, and pollution from mining activities rather than nomadic pastoralism which is actually beneficial to the soil. 
 

A Tibetan nomad, showing a picture of himself at the age of 25. A nationwide campaign of nomad resettlement, in the name of environment protection is pushing Tibetan to give up pastoralism for a sedentary life alien to them.

Screen capture of a TV news anchor explaining viewers how to put on a mask. The video was playing in loop on the Beijing subway.

A near empty office and commercial compound.

Beijing sprawling new airport, empty of travellers in early February, when it should be bustling with passengers returning from the New Year break.

All shops are closed in a touristic neighbourhood devoid of visitors.

Locals walking past posters encouraging to wear masks.

A member of a neighbourhood committee keeping watch at the entrance of a hutong. Neighborhood committees, the most local level of the Communist Party, have been key in implementing the quarantine.

A member of the neighborhood committee, going door to door, registering residents, delivering resident cards and ensuring that the quarantine rules are well understood. The grid management system that allows the Communist Party to keep Chinese citizens in check, has allowed for an efficient implementation of the quarantine.

A checkpoint manned by members of the neighborhood committee. Only residents are allowed in and all entrants have their temperature checked.

Shoppers body temperature are screened at the entrance of a supermarket. Throughout the lockdown supermarkets and shops were fully provisioned.

Employee in Hazmat suit in a supermarket where an automated payment system has been set-up. Supermarket employees because of their repeated close contacts with customers are at high risk of being contaminated. Some supermarket took seriously the protection of employees.

At a pharmacy, a customer trying to get some medicine. many shops are not letting customers in.

Readers at a newsstand. Most of them remained closed during the quarantine. After an initial relaxation allowing for Chinese media to document the covid-19 outbreak, Beijing took control of the narrative. Independent vloggers disappeared, some articles and on-line posts were suppressed. The foreign press was criticised by state media outlets for its biased reporting. 15 foreign journalists have been expelled since the epidemic started, part of an escalating war of words between the U.S. and China. The death of a whistleblower doctor prompted for a rare online expression of discontent and demands for “freedom of information”.

Railway employees dressed in hazmat suit escorting passengers out of the Beijing railway station.

few travellers at Beijing railway station.

Temperature, and residency card check at the entrance of a subway station.

A lone diner in a closed bar of neighborhood famous for its nightlife.

In March 2020, a few restaurants reopened but saw few customers as Beijingers still cautious about risks of contagion preferred to stay home.

A lone pedestrian in the deserted business district of Beijing.

Walking in the deserted business district of Beijing.

Masked soldiers marching past the closed Forbidden City.

Security guards in the empty street around the Forbidden City walls.

By mid-March some office workers started coming back to work.

A couple of young workers buying steamed buns before the start of the day shift at a Foxconn factory.

A Foxconn plant on the oustkirts of Zhengzhou. In the span of two years what was a group of rural villages has been transformed into a factory town with over 200 000 people mainly working at the production of Iphones. Foxconn, a Taiwanese company, is one of Apple main subcontractors and employs over 1.2 million people including hundreds of thousands in China. 

A woman has just arrived for a visit at Foxconn factory city on the outskirts of Zhengzhou. She is calling her boyfriend working on an I-phone assembly line. She might join the workers' ranks.

At lunch break hundred of factory workers have left the factory to have food at the stalls which are catering to them. Foxconn provides food for its workers but many of them prefer to eat out because, they say, of the poor taste/quality of the one provided by their employer.

Two Foxconn recruiting agents stations nearby factories. They work for a hiring agency contracted by the local governement. They say they hire on average 10 workers a day. To provide needed workforce, Foxconn relies on local authorities which in turn hires recruiting agents. At times, civil servants can be required to fill in for workers at Foxconn when recruitment has been difficult. 

Just hired Foxconn workers are waiting for the agent who recruited them. For hiring workers, Foxconn relies on the provincial government which itself subcontract agents. The turnover is high at Foxconn and agents are almost constantly hiring.

It's past 10 pm at Zhengzhou's Apple city and recruiters are still busy. A young man is showing his forearms at recruiters. Any sign of a tattoo would be disqualifying. However, when in shortage of workforce Foxconn recruiters overlook this precondition.

Foxconn dorms on a street still under construction.In the span of two years what were rural villages on the outskirt of Zhengzhou has become a bustling factory city dedicated to Foxcoon, and housing 200 000 workers. The city is still expanding with new factories being built.
 

I-phone workers and crooks by a lottery scam stage. The young I-phone workers are easy prey for small scale crooks and hustlers. For many of them it is the first time they live outside their hometown/village and the first time they are financially independent.  

A Foxconn worker at a fast food restaurant during a day off..

A young couple by a skating ring. Skating is one of the most popular out-of-work activity for the Foxconn workers here.

A lone diner at an outdoor restaurant next to a construction site at the Foxconn factory town on the outskirts of Zhengzhou.

Li Yi Gang a 19 years old Foxconn worker in his room. Li rents this room which he shares with a friend. They work on alternate shifts. Each pays a RMB300 montly rent for the room, double what would cost a bed in a Foxconn dorm. But Li thinks it's worth the extra money, as he considers the dorms too cramped and noisy.On his spare time, when he is not visiting his girlfriend in a nearby city, Yi likes to go rollerblading. 

At 6 pm, Foxconn workers on the day shift leave the factory. Many of them will come back to do extra hours. Labour organisations have faulted Foxconn for breaking labour laws by requesting employees to work too long days and too many days without rest, leading to workers exhaustion and higher rates of accident. However, most workers are seeking to work extra hours. They say the basic salary is not enough and only extra work makes it worth working for the Apple subcontractor.

Foxconn workers sitting in a cart taking them from the plant to the commercial/residential area of the factory town. On the cart a promotion for a housing project nicknamed "Apple City".

Foxconn workers sitting in a three-wheel taxi riding a dirt road of this factory town still in the making.

Foxconn workers having dinner in a small outdoor restaurant in front of their dorms.

Foxconn workers passing by a cloth vendor. The sudden influx of young workers in what was a rural suburb of Zhengzhou has attracted many small businesses ran by locals and catering to the workers needs.

Foxconn workers drinking beer during a transvestites show at an outdoor restaurant in the Foxconn factory town.

On a street still under construction.

On a dirt road of Foxconn factory town on the outskirts of Zhengzhou, two girls checking their smartphones while a construction truck is passing nearby.

At a skating ring. Rollerskating is one of the most popular hobbies among Foxconn workers.

During a performance, at a club, in Foxconn factory town on the outskirts of Zhengzhou.

Foxconn workers at a club

Foxconn workers at a club

Foxconn workers watching a show at a club

A foxconn worker dancing in a club.

A young couple at a club. Among Foxconn workers many young couples who came to this factory town together, or found romance there. Foxconn dorms have a strictly enforced gender segregation, requiring couples to rent rooms in the city.

A female Foxconn worker, buying a steam bun on her way back to her room at the end of the night shift.

A police robot equipped with surveillance cameras on patrol in a commercial street of Beijing. This robot, connected to the city surveillance system can scan people within a radius of 800 m (2600 feet). China’s police will spend an additional $30 billion in the coming years on surveillance technology, according to one expert quoted in state media.

Screen capture of a video showing facial recognition software in use, at the showroom of Megvii in Beijing. China’s President Xi Jinping has launched a major upgrade of the Chinese surveillance state. China has become the world’s biggest market for security and surveillance technology, with analysts estimating the country will have almost 300 million cameras installed by 2020. This same year, the country plans to have a comprehensive social credit system incorporating a vast array of behavioral data, in place,

Police standing guard by Houhai Lake in Beijing. For security, China relies on lo-tech, as well as high tech. Chinese cities use different levels of policing : community patrols run by private citizens organized at the neighborhood level, private security firms, city police, and armed police (under the authority of the People’s Liberation Army).

Screen capture of a video footage showing Sensetime crowd monitoring system. It allows to measure a crowd density (the color patches on the image), as well as the identification of "abnormal" behaviours.

A plainclothes security (right) standing guard on a commercial street in the neighbourhood of the Great Hall of the People where China's Communist Party 19th congress is taking place.

Screen capture of CCTV footage using the face recognition system Face ++ developped by Megvii, on display at the company’s showroom. Face++ AI software allows the users to check scanned faces against a database of researched individuals in a matter of seconds. How such a system can work when the database numbers thousands if not millions of people remains to be seen. However, the Chinese police frequently boasts about arrests of criminals with the help of CCTV cameras coupled with A.I., facial recognition systems.

A Uyghur looking at a police checkpoint in the old city of Kashgar. Xinjiang is where China’s surveillance system is the most advanced and ubiquitous. Security checkpoints are everywhere. The police regularly scans smartphones in search of “sensitive” content which includes any religious content, application allowing to bypass the Chinese internet firewall or encrypted chat application. This surveillance apparatus specifically targets the Uyghurs, the principal ethnic group of the province. Since at least 2017, Chinese police have forced Uyghurs to install the Jingwang Weishi app on their phones, allowing for remote monitoring of the phone's contents. In 2017, security spending in Xinjiang increased by 90% to $8.52 billion, as compared to 2016.

A programmer working on a facial recognition software at Megvii headquarters in Beijing. Chinese authorities are using a vast, secret system of advanced facial recognition technology to track and control the Uighurs, a largely Muslim minority. The facial recognition technology, which is integrated into China’s rapidly expanding networks of surveillance cameras, looks exclusively for Uighurs based on their appearance and keeps records of their comings and goings for search and review. The practice makes China a pioneer in applying next-generation technology to watch its people, potentially ushering in a new era of automated racism. Megvii is one of the companies behind this racial profiling technology, according to The New York Times.

At Sensetime showroom, a video shows a system allowing facial identification via surveillance cameras set up in a mall. The system allows to track an individual path through the mall. Data analysis could help mall owners to optimize the organization of the mall to maximize revenues.

Visitors to Tian An Men square having their ID scanned at a security check. The machines are equipped with cameras for facial recognition.

At a security checkpoint in Hangzhou, a pedestrian is handing his city smart ID card to a policeman equipped with a scanner. The card featuring a microchip, contains a large amount of private data allowing him to use city services (health, education,social security funds transport..etc) and bill payments. The card is also used for a city wide voluntary social credit rating system which so far has few users.

Screenshot of an app for a social credit system being implemented in Hangzhou. The user of the app has a 688 score out of 1000 points. The application is linked to the Hangzhou citizen card used for transport, bill and fines payment.

So far the system is voluntary and few in the city have enrolled.

Screen captures of an animation explaining the social credit system shown at the citizens affairs office of the city of Rongcheng (Shandong). Rongcheng is one of the pilot cities implementing the social credit system.

Receptionists at a hotel in Hangzhou are scanning the ID of guests checking in. The scanner equipped with a camera and a facial recognition software is ensuring that the guests are who they claim to be.

Developed by the Chinese start-up Sensetime, this A.I. system coupled with the the CCTV camera, allows for basic descriptions of individuals and vehicles.

In Xiangyang, at a crossroad equipped with monitoring cameras linked to facial recognition technology, an outdoor screen displays photos of jaywalkers alongside their name and I.D. number. The idea is to embarrass offenders into compliance.

Screen capture of CCTV live footage using the face and vehicles recognition system Face ++. The A.I. system coupled with the the CCTV camera, allows for basic descriptions of individuals and vehicles.

In Yangqiao (Zhejiang) locals are playing Mah-Jong in a home where the household social credit score is displayed on the wall. The social credit system implemented in this village since 2018 is based on five criteria : cleanness and tidiness of courtyard, Observance of laws and regulations, bank credit, recycling, family values. Locals describe the system as useless and of no effect on their daily behaviour (which includes for many, gambling). However, this local experience has been hailed as a success by local and national State media and will be extended to other villages and towns in the region. Chinese authorities have announced their wish to have a nationwide social credit system in place by 2020. However the details and feasibility of such a system are yet unclear.

Screen capture of a CCTV footage showing human recognition recognition software in use, at the showroom of Megvii in Beijing. In this case the software describes a pedestrian : short hair, black t-shirt, grey short, carrying a bag.

A security guard, equipped with a giant fork for crowd control, monitoring monitoring passers-by on Beijing pedestrian street popular with shoppers and tourists.

Volunteers from a neighbourhood security committee standing guard on a street of old Beijing. The Chinese government is using networks of civilians to help maintain order. These public security volunteers, eyes and ears of the local police, are mostly retired men and women whose main responsibility is to patrol the neighborhood and report anything suspicious. The district of Chaoyang in Beijing would have 190 000 such informant, about 1 for every 18 inhabitants.

Paramilitary police at a subway entrance in Beijing. Security in the capital has been heightened for political event. Each subway entrance has two military police standing guard on top of regular police and security staff. Overpass bridges, important crossroads also have paramilitary police.

Visitors to Tian An Men square passing by a street light holding 9 surveillance cameras. By 2020, analysts estimate that China will have nearly 300 million cameras installed, and Chinese police will spend $30 billion on surveillance technology.

Screen capture of a video footage showing Sensetime crowd monitoring system. It allows to measure a crowd density as well as the identification of "abnormal" behaviours.

Minutes before a concert is to start at Beijing National Centre for Performing Arts, audience members are using their smartphones. There are few laws protecting privacy in China. Online communication is constantly monitored for sensitive content. The country’s largest internet companies, and the government itself, have gathered huge amount of data on internet users. Mails and chat application are not encrypted. Private online conversations are regularly used to indict dissidents. For now there seem to be little concern in the public for the lack of privacy. The upcoming implementation of 5G, considerably heightening the speed and volume of data transmission, thus strengthening the State surveillance apparatus will make the question of privacy even more acute.

The inhabitants of Dachang, an historic village, are enjoying their last summer by the Danning river a subsidiary of the Yangtze. In the summer of 2006 the village was flooded, and the inhabitants moved away from the river to a new city.

The inhabitants of Dachang during their last summer before the water rose.

The inhabitants of Dachang, an historic village, are enjoying their last summer by the Danning river a subsidiary of the Yangtze. In the summer of 2006 the village was flooded, and the inhabitants moved away from the river to a new city.

Dachang, a city of over 1700 years of history a few months before its destruction ahead of the flooding. The centuries old houses, typical of Ming rural architecture are already empty of their inhabitants who have relocated further up.

Workers consolidating the banks of the Yangtze ahead of the waters rise.

The water flows out of the turbines of the three gorges dam on the Yangtze river.

Inhabitants of Gaoyang walking by the razed buildings of the old city. Positionned by a subsidiary of the Yangtze, the city got flooded in the summer of 2006.

The old city of Fenghdu is being torn down ahead of the flooding when the river level will rise to 165 meters.

The old city of Fenghdu is being torn down ahead of the flooding when the river level will rise to 175 meters.

A worker is taklng a break, while others are tearing down houses. The lower part of Wushan is levelled off as the Yangtze level is going to rise further in the the summer 2006. Dozens of thousands people living in this area have been forced to move.

Workers consolidating the bank of the Yangtze, before the water level rises.

Workers picking up bricks from the ruins of residential buildings in Fengdu old city. The old city of Fengdu will be razed down before the 3 gorges reservoire rises.

The old city of Fenghdu is being torn down ahead of the flooding when the river level will rise to 175 meters.

A passer-by in the empty streets of Gaoyang. Positionned by a subsidiary of the Yangtze, the old city will be flooded in the summer of 2006. The new city has been rebuilt 30 kilometers away, but economic activity has yet to follow. So far mainly civil servants live here. Businesses are reluctant to settle due to the remote location of the new city.

Residents of Wanzhou are stunned by the transformation of their environment as entire areas of their city is being levelled off to prepare for the reservoire rise.

 shoot the balloon stand by the Yangtze river. Chongqing is the upstream gate to te reservoir created by the three gorges dam. It is also one of the fastest growing city in China. In spite of its growth it is crippled by unempolyment due to the influx of population who had to leave the three gorges area.

Inhabitants of Fengdu are loading their belongings onto a truck as they are moving out ofe the city. Over 1 million people have to resetlle as a result of the dam construction. Many have lost job in the prcess.

Passengers on a boat to heading to Chongqing. Over 1 million people have left their hometown along the river as their area is to be flooded by the rising water level. They sometimes had to relocate thousand miles away.

A barge in the mist on the Yangtze.

A group of Chinese tourists are looking at a model of the three gorges dam. In spite of the controversy surrounding it the dam has become a tourist sight and an object of pride for many Chinese.

A tourist posing for a picture in front of the Three Gorges Dam. The dam has become a tourist attraction and an object of National pride, in spite of the controversy surrounding its construction.

In the streets of Wanzhou a sign points to the level to be reached by the Yangtze reservoir once the dam is completed in 2009.

A man staring at Chongqing skyline from the cable car station. Chongqing is the upstream gate to te reservoir created by the three gorges dam. It is also one of the fastest growing city in China. In spite of its growth it is crippled by unempolyment due to the influx of population who had to leave the three gorges area.

In Markam (Sichuan), Lobsang Ishi an 80 year-old monk stands at the doors of his monastery on which propaganda posters featuring Chinese leaders have been put up. .Since the 2008 riots in Tibetan regions, the Chinese government has embarked on a campaign of reeducation aiming at putting back the Buddhist monasteries under control.

At Labrang Monastery (Gansu), a penitent crawling near a group of monks gathered for a philosophy lesson.

At Labrang monastery (Gansu Province), monks have gathered for a philosophy lesson. Labrang has long been one of the most influential Tibetan Buddhism centre outside Tibet, with 4000 monks studying there at its height. There are now about 1000 monks, following restrictions by Beijing.

At Rongwo Monastery in Renbkong (Tongreng - Qinghai), monks engaged in debates. In Tibetan monasteries, debates are an everyday part of life, and an important part of learning. They can last for hours.

At Kirti Monastery (Ngawa - Aba, Sichuan) a novice monk throwing prayer papers during a religious festival. In March 2008, major protests erupted there. People’s Armed Police intervention resulted in several deaths.

At Kirti Monastery (Ngawa - Aba, Sichuan) pilgrims throwing prayer papers during a religious festival. The monastery which has a history of protests, has been at the centre of a wave of self-immolation that started in 2011. Dozens of monks or ex-monks from Kirti have died, setting themselves on fire.

At Kirti monastery, young monks at the door of a prayer hall attending a religious ceremony. The monastery has been under close watch by authorities since protests erupted there in 2008, followed in 2011 by a wave of self-immolations claiming the lives of dozens of monks and ex-monks.

Monks and locals have gathered for areligious celebration at Gonchen Monastery in Derge.

A portrait of the Dalai Lama, is on display in a temple in Garze prefecture (Ganzi -Sichuan). Although public display of his portrait are banned and can results in jail time for offenders, the rule is not always enforced. The portrait can be seen in private homes, in cars and temples, while many carry photos of the religious leader in their phone. In some Tibetan counties, authorities have recently offered subsidies to households who would display portrait of Chinese leaders instead.

Shades of Tibetan pilgrims doing the Kora (making a circumambulation) around a temple In Ngawa (aba- Sichuan).

A monk making a kora (a circumambulation - religious practice) at the Parkhang lamasery, in Derge (Sichuan).

A Tibetan woman in prosternation as a monk is walking past. The Buddhist clergy sways great influence on Tibetans, challenging the authority of secular rulers. The local mediation of community or family disputes is often carried by lamas with no involvement of administrative authorities.

A han Chinese tourist in prayers at a temple in Garze Prefecture (Sichuan). Tibetan Buddhism has gained lots of followers worlwide and in mainland China where number wealthy Chinese often follow the advice of monks.

Young monks walking past the construction site of a new large monastery in Litang (Sichuan). In recent years, the growing number of Tibetan Buddhists outside Tibet as well as the increased standard of living of Tibetans has made religious communities wealthier allowing for the renovation and extensions of monasteries and temples.

Novice monks before the start of the morning class. Monasteries are key to the preservation of Tibetan culture.

A novice monk, learning Tibetan at a monastery in Yushu (Qinghai). Since bilingual Chinese-Tibetan education has disappeared, many young Tibetans can’t read or write their own language.

Novice monks during a Tibetan language class at a monastery in Yushu (Qinghai). Monasteries are the only place to get a full Tibetan education. Recently private Tibetan classes have been shut down and monasteries have been banned from teaching Tibetan to laypeople. Many Tibetans fear their culture is under threat.

At the Parkhang lamasery, in Derge (Sichuan), workers printing Tibetan texts using woddblocks following a centuries-old tradition. This printing press is the embodiment of a hallowed tradition and is one site where the Tibetan language is being preserved.

Monks checking religious books for sale on a street of Larung Gar (Serta, Sichuan), a monastic camp that once had 20 000 monks and nuns studying there, making it the world’s largest Buddhist institute.

A nun holding a prayer wheel at the monastic camp of Larung Gar (Serta Sichuan).

In Larung Gar, a monk looking at workers dismantling a house, as authorities have decided to reduce the number of people living and studying at the monastic camp. The growth of this spiritual place had become a challenge to Beijing efforts to control the region.

A monk walking past construction workers dismantling a house. The number of monks and nuns studying at Larung Gar has dropped from 20 000 to 5 000.

Nuns coming out of a class at Yarchen Gar monastic camp. 10 000 nuns used to study, and pray at this religious settlement, high on the Tibetan plateau.

A communal water tap on a street in Yarchen Gar. The living conditions for the nuns of this settlement are basic. Poor hygiene and comfort haven’t deterred thousands to come here to study, pray and meditate.

A view of Yarchen Gar from a shop.

A monk looking at Yarchen Gar settlement from a hill. Half of the settlement has been destroyed since this picture was taken.

A student at the Evergrande Football School practicing headshots.

The Guangzhou Tianhe stadium is full for a Chinese League game between Evergrande, the local team and league leader, and Changcun Yatai F.C.. After cleaning itself from decades of corruption scandals, China's Football League has seen increased interest from the public. Real Estate conglomerates, insurance companies and internet giants now own the major clubs and have embarked in costly investment, bringing in coaches and players from Europe and Latin America. Among many such deals, Evergrande bought the Columbia striker Jackson Martinez from the Atletico Madrid for $46 million in 2016.

At The Guangzhou Tianhe stadium Evergrande supporters cheering during a Chinese League game against Changcun Yatai F.C..

At The Guangzhou Tianhe stadium Evergrande supporters cheering as their team just scored a goal during a Chinese League game against Changcun Yatai F.C..

Outside The Guangzhou Tianhe stadium Evergrande supporters buying the Jackson Martinez T-shirt. The Colombian striker has been acquired by Evergrande for a whooping $46 million in 2016. He has quickly become a favourite for the club supporters. In the main pro trading season last year, the 16 Chinese Super League teams spent over $300 million hiring away promising foreign players, outstripping player spending by the English Premier League by nearly $120 million.

Outside the Workers Stadium in Beijing, a booth selling players stickers to supporters. 

Outside the Workers stadium in Beijing, supporters of the Beijing club Guoan waiting for friends by a statue representing workers.

Supporters of the Beijing club Guoan cheering before the start of a game at the Workers Stadium. Guoan supporters are among the most fierce and unruly of Chinese football.

Guan supporters waving during a game at Beijing Workers Stadium.

A cook and friends watching a game of the 2016 Eurocup, late at night on a street of Beijing. International football tournaments draw huge audiences in China, in spite of the absence of the National team which poor performances don't allow a presence in such games. The national men’s team recently placed 83rd in FIFA rankings, just ahead of the Faroe Islands.

A giant model of the World Cup trophy outside the Evergrande Football school in Guangdong. The school, the biggest in the world with hundreds of students and dozens of football fields has become a symbol of China's efforts to become a world class football nation. Since this photo was taken the school had to remove the statue at the FIFA's request.

Gardeners working at the entrance gate of the Evergrande Football School, the world’s biggest soccer boarding school and a showcase for China's ambitions to groom talents of international caliber. 

Students at the Evergrande Football School playing soccer during the training classes. The school counts 48 football pitches

Students of the Evergrande football school having breakfast at the school's canteen decorated with drawings of football players.

A student book in hand running to class through Evergrande football school park decorated with the statue of a player with the world cup trophy in hands.

Students of the Evergrande football school training.

Students of the Evergrande football school training.

Students of the Evergrande football school doing stretching exercises under the eyes of a spanish coach. The school football training has been set up in partnership with the Real Madrid and number of Spanish coach work there.

A student at pain during a gym session. 

Students of the Evergrande football school practicing their dribbling.

A 9 years old student preparing his bed for the night at Evergrande Football school.

An employee sweeping the alleys of the Evergrande Football School manicured gardens where a mosaic represents a giant soccer ball. 

In the countryside the troupe has set up stage and is in front of an audience of peasants wearing straw hats.

The performers backstage behind a painted set representing a typical Chinese landscape.

Backstage, opera artists are doing their own make-up. The make-up process is a difficult and key process in the art of Chinese opera. It take years for the artists to learn the skill. The make up is like a mask with highly symbolic meanings. It allows the audience to quickly identify a character: good or bad, its function, rank.. depending on the colors and drawings.

Backstage, opera artists are doing their own make-up. The make-up process is a difficult and key process in the art of Chinese opera. It take years for the artists to learn the skill. The make up is like a mask with highly symbolic meanings. It allows the audience to quickly identify a character: good or bad, its function, rank.. depending on the colors and drawings.

Backstage, opera artists are doing their own make-up. The make-up process is a difficult and key process in the art of Chinese opera. It take years for the artists to learn the skill. The make up is like a mask with highly symbolic meanings. It allows the audience to quickly identify a character: good or bad, its function, rank.. depending on the colors and drawings.

The village has come to attend a representation of the opera.. Some haven't found room near the stage and are sitting on piles of coal at the edge of the village square. The region is is rich with coal and the troup belongs to a coal baron with a passion for opera. He created it after falling in love with an opera singer who he made his concubine.

The village has come to attend a repreentation of the opera..Mostly children are fascinated by this form of entertainment. For the new gernerations of Chinese, opera is difficult to undrestand and appreciate. It belongs to another era.

The village has come to attend a representation of the opera..Mostly children are fascinated by this form of entertainment. For the new generations of Chinese, opera is difficult to understand and appreciate. It belongs to another era.

During a performance of traditional Shanxi Opera (xi jiu). The artists are travelling from villages to city. They are performing since their youngest age. A hard life constantly on the road for very little money.

During a performance of traditional Shanxi Opera (xi jiu). The artists are travelling from villages to city. They are performing since their youngest age. A hard life constantly on the raod for very little money.

An actress backstage during a play.

After a performance the artists wash their face taking off the make-up. Artists have to wear heavy make-up 8 hours a day which is both irritating and very damaging to their skin.

Artists are have gathered around a big noodle pot after the show. They have a cook that prepare the food for them. Because they don't have much money they rarely eat meat.

Member of the troup are washing themselves in a public bathroom. They usually can do that only once a week.

Members of the opera troup sleeping on the floor in the morning.

Two members of the opera troup waking up after a night on the floor. Members of the troup usually sleep in a communal building of the village or are hosted by villagers who are paid in cowl for their service.

People from the village are looking at a poster announcing the programme for the day. Usually one opera is played in the afternoon another one in the evening, each lasting 4 hours. The programme is chosen by the village committee who commissioned the troup to come.

The troup is rehearsing a difficult move. Rehearsals take place in the morning, while the actors are on stage the whole afternoons and evenings, leaving little time off.

While a troupe member is enjoying a break backstage,  two young villagers are staring at him fascinated and somewhat scared.

Two actors during a break, backstage. Romance between members of the troupe is common and couples are formed.

Tha last show has just ended and a troupe member is starting to dismantle the set before moving to another location.

The troup is getting on the bus heading for their next destination. They usually spend 3-4 days in one location before heading to the next.

The ruins of Beichuan the hardest hit city. Beichuan will not be rebuilt and will be turned into a memorial to the earthquake that killed, according to official counts, 70 000 people on May 12th, 2008. Built in in a narrow valley on a fault line, the city should have never been allowed to develop.

The dead bodies of 3 students at Beichuan high school. They died together. 1400 students from that school perished that day. The official toll is 800. The poor building quality of schools buildings in the earthquake region explain the high number of children victims and has been a subject of controversy. Many critics faulting government corruption for it, have been harassed and jailed.

A mother waiting for the rescuers to find her 15 years old daughter in the ruins of Beichuan middle school.

The dead body of a student at Beichuan middle school is being carried away, his face covered with a physics text book.

At Beichuan middle school, a tearful and angry father showing the bricks of the school that collapsed. He is blaming the poor quality of the construction for the collapse of the school. Official investigation concluded that the earthquake alone was the cause of the collapse. Other bulidings around the school are still standing.

Bodies of the victims of the earthquake are lined up in a courtyard behind Beichuan middle school before being taken away. They are spread with disinfectant.

To bury the many victims of Hongbai, soldiers have digged graves on the hills overlooking the city.

A man wandering through Beichuan in ruins, crying.

At the village of Luo Shui in the plain of Chengdu, inhabitants are receiving water and food from volunteers. The locals have survived for 3 days with one bottle of water each, before receiving aid from the outside. The earthquake triggered a huge solidarity movement throughout China.

A survivor from the earthquake is brought in by P.L.A. soldiers.

Li Qing Song is being taken out of the building alive by a team of rescuers from Henan province. He has spent 104 hours buried under the debris of the workers club where the eartquake caught him.

Li Qing Song is being taken into an ambulance.

Back to life, back to the chat room. 36 hours after his rescue and spending 4 days trapped in the debris of a collapsed building, Li Qing Song (right) his back with his family. He is chatting online with a net friend next to his brother (left) his aunt and his dad (behind).

A boxing ring inside Mianyang stadium has been turned into a temporary dormitory for Beichuan earthquake refugees. Up to 20 000 people have used the stadium as a refuge. The outbreak of diseases was successfully prevented.

At Mianyang stadium, a temporary shelter for earthquake refugees from Beichuan, a woman is hlding her baby. She, has been living in the stadium for 3 days. She along her husband and child have survived the earthquake, but have lost their house and work.

On the second day of the earthquake National mourning, Chengdu youth spontaneously demonstrate, walking around  Chengdu people's square, shouting "China stand up, Sichuan stand up", waving Chinese and communist flags, and lifting their fists in the air.

At Longju Temple the Buddha keeps smiling amid the ruins.

In Xingyi (Guizhou) 11 years old Hailian washing cloth in the village pond. The village has no running water and rain water is collected in ponds. It is in this pond that Hailian's 3 years old little brother drowned a few months before. Like Hailian he was under the care of their 75 years old grandfather, as their parents are working hundreds of miles away in a factory. 

4 years old Ting Rui, Hailian cousin, standing at the door of his grand parents home on a day he and his sisters were left alone at home. Ting Rui's father works hundreds of miles away, while is mum has disappeared.
 

8 years old Ting Fen, Ting Rui's older sister, standing on a wood ladder in the main room of her grand parents's home, on a day she and her siblings were left alone at home. Ting Fen's father works hundreds of miles away, while her mum has disappeared.

Ting Fen, Ting Rui and Yang Tian Mei, on their way to wash the household laundry on a day she and his siblings were left alone at home. 

Yang Tingmei and her siblings, playing at the family home on a day they were left alone at home. 

11 years old Yang Tian Mei, standing by the door of the kitchen with one of her sisters, at her grand parents' home. 

Playing at home alone.

11 years old Yang Tian Mei, standing with her grand father under the porch of the family home. Her grand-father has just come back for a lunch break from working on the construction side of a dirt road which will link the village with the local asphalt road. Before lunch he is smoking tobacco through a water pipe.

Tianmei feeding the family pigs.

11 years old Hailian (with orange coat) with her family heading back to the newly built family home after going shopping to the city. Her parents just came back two days before, to work on the village road. Outside Chinese New Year she never sees her parents who work in a factory in Guangdong province. She and her sister are raised by her grand-father.

Hailian's little sister Haili, reading a school book in the newly built family home. Her parents just came back two days before, to work on the village road. Outside Chinese New Year she never sees her parents who work in a factory in Guangdong province. She and her sister are raised by their grand-father.

Yang Tian Mei two sisters, doing schoolwork in their grand parents' home. 

8 years old Ting Fe doing her schoolwork, while her little brother is watching tv. 

Hailian 75 years old grand father, in his home. His son having left to work in the provincial capital, Guiyang, he is in charge of raising his grandchildren. His 3 years old grandson drowned a few months before while he went unattended on a stroll unattended to the village pond. 

iang Gifen, who is 77 and lives nearby, looked after her grandchildren while her son and his wife went off to find work.

Tian Mei fixing dinner for her siblings. She remembers her mother, "You must be good, listen to your grandparents".

Tianmei feeding the fire to cook the dinner.

Tian Mei's 3 years old little brother is having his feet washed by his grand mother from a water basin, a nightly ritual in the yan family. The house has no running water and it has to be brought from the pond. The Yan grand parents have to take care of their for grand children. 

At 5 am, Tian Mei and her sisters are up, sitting by the fire they have started. Tian Mei is  combing and drying her hair.

At 6 am, Tian Mei is doing some schoolwork before breakfast.

At 7 am, Tian Mei and her sisters are off to school an hour walk away along a mountain dirt path.

Tian Mei and her sister have reached the main road they still have another 30' to walk to the school.

Urban landscape of Chongqing, one of the fastest growing city in China.

One of the founding element of China's transformation over the past decades has been the urbanization of its population.. The share of rural population dropped from 75% to 45% in just 25 years. Hundreds of millions of people moving and drastically changing their lifestyle.. This phenomenon has triggered a total reshaping of China's urban landscape. Historic neighborhoods have been razed to leave room to high-rises and shopping malls. Alleyways have become expressways. Meanwhile this influx of population has put urban infrastructures under stress, with packed buses and subways, drying water resources, and increased air pollution. 

Buyers and sellers at a real estate market fair in Beijing.

A woman tending to a vegetable garden with a giant real estate project, the 1.12 million square meters Chongqing Raffles City,  looming behind her. This project will redefine the megalopolis skyline.

A migrant's child standing in the ruins of Beijing traditional housing near the Forbidden City. The destruction of old neighborhoods including many architectural treasures is one consequence of China's urbanization. 

Construction for a new subway line in Beijing. Thousands of kilometers of subways have been built over the past decade as cities expanded both in population and superficy while city centers got ensnared in notorious traffic jams. In Beijing alone over 500 kilometers of subways have been built between 2008 and 20016.

A worker by a construction site in Beijing. 

A man staring at a large residential complex under construction by the Yangtze in Chongqing. Part of the "Chongqing Model" developed by Party Secretary Bo Xilai includes the construction of social housing. Chongqing has the fastest growing GDP in China. Residential housing investment as a share of China's GDP has tripled from 2% in 2000 to 6% in 2011.

Lanzhou New Area, a city emerging from the sands. The construction of the city started in 2012, and involved levelling hundreds of barren hills. As of 2017 only a few thousands inhabitants had moved in. The city has been planned to harbour 1 million inhabitants by 2020. 

China's urbanisation has lead to the creation from scratch of dozens of new cities, few of which have been successful.  

An themed park of Lanzhou New Area, featuring a real size Acropolis and Sphinx. The park has been built to attract visitors and create work in this new city which as only a few thousands inhabitants so far.

A ring road under construction in Lanzhou New Area, a city built from scratch in Gansu Province.

Residential buildings under construction in Caofeidian a new city built on reclaimed land at a high cost. Billed as the "world's first realised eco-city" at its inception, 8 years and billions of dollars later, few industries have moved there and the city is mostly empty.

Bad planning, mismanagement, speculation and corruption have led to the creation of many "ghost cities". 

Locals going crab fishing with unfinished  buildings looming at the horizon. Caofeidian, originally a small island, The construction of this new city on land reclaimed from the sea required billions of dollars. 10 years after the inception of this urban project, of the million people expected just a few thousands have moved in. 

A man reflects on window overlooking Chongqing skyline, seen from the megalopolis new business district.  

An abandoned fish shaped pedal boat on the dry river bed of the Yonding river one of Beijing major river and water source which dried up in the early 2000s. Urban growth has put urban water resources under heavy stress in particular in the North of China. To solve the issue authorities have embarked on ambitious scheme to divert water from the South to the North and put a cap on population growth in some cities including Beijing. Dozens of thousands of migrants have been expelled from Beijing since 2017 in a move that specifically targets the working class population.